Hello dog lovers,

It has been long debated whether or not dogs with fear aggression could be rehabilitated and turned around. Many would say that a dog that has been growling, showing teeth and nip, even if it hasn’t harmed anyone yet, will eventually bite thus, needs to be euthanized, and sooner the better.

Me and Susie belong to the ones that will think it over several times and rather give a dog a chance, or to be more precise, will give it a chance if in proper hands. The handling, the love and patience with rehabilitating dogs is the profound key to success and as long as an aggressive dog has not gone beyond the point of no return, there is always a good chance for recovery.

Colleen is rescued female coming from a shelter in North Carolina. She has been with her adopting loving family for three months before they called us in Mid November 2009 to see if we could possibly save her as she was showing aggressive behavior such as growling, showing teeth and nip occasionally. They feared she might harm their grandchildren or someone else. Colleen’s family was close to bringing her back to the shelter. However, knowing that dogs returning to the shelter with signs for aggressive behavior are not adoptable and will end up euthanized, they decided they want to try and save her.

We went to see Colleen for evaluation:

About two years old midsize Lab like mix spayed female, has been on good diet looking healthy with a shiny coat. Prior history before getting to the shelter is unknown. She was growling and showing teeth at family members and strangers yet has not exhibited any dog-dog aggression. There wasn’t any bite history and she has not bitten anyone yet but displayed clear Fear Aggression at the Vet’s office and had to be sedated for exams. Colleen would not let anyone touch her and definitely not pick her up onto the examination table. She will growl and show teeth in any touch attempt.

She is okay when walked on leash yet, will make it a challenge to put the collar on her.

Colleen is extremely fearful from any noise such as falling dishes, clapping etc. She gets scared when the upper freezer fridge compartment is being opened and will run away. She is horrified by passing cars when walked out and will shiver, pant and pull the leash, when her tail is deeply tucked under, even away from the sidewalk. She is so stressful that it takes her a while to recuperate.

Colleen’s constant fear is tremendously reducing her ability to focus. She is awfully suspicious and tail is tucked under for most of time while we were there. Colleen did not take a treat from our hands and was fearful from men more then women thus, our trainer, Susie, tossed a cookie away and Colleen picked it up and dropped it looking around suspiciously and then ate it.

Susie and I continued to drop and toss treats on the floor and after a while Colleen picked it up and swallowed them right away. Slowly, she approached closer and closer until eventually she ate from our hands. As soon as that happened I said to myself “we’ve got ya”!!! At this moment I knew that we can help this dog. This was a critical icebreaker.

We took Colleen out to the back yard and she was willingly playing with Adele (her owner) retrieving a tennis ball. Susie and I have tried to engage in the play as well but Colleen wasn’t comfortable with us at all. When I raised my hand to throw the ball she growled at me and showed her teeth in a threatening way. She must have got scared from my raised hand and an immediate thought crossed my mind: “has this dog been beaten by a man?”

Known Medical History: Has been treated for heart worms, had complications in spaying and had one litter per Vet’s examination.

Although, not mentioned by the Vet, we have observed a tight and non-smooth movement in her rears while trotting or running. Also, Colleen wouldn’t seat to urinate but go while walking or standing. I suspect she had a hip injury of some sort.

Assessment:

Colleen has been most definitely traumatized some time in her life, whether she has been badly abused and beaten or got hit by a car we will never know and guessing will not change the way we would treat her. What we are looking for are the little hints that will tell us she is worth the try and she has given it to us – eating from our hands.

Conclusions and immediate recommendations:

Fear Aggression Level 1 – No serious bites and has not broken the skin.

1. Basic training in very short sessions (dog has difficulty to focus)

2. Minimize exposure to fear inducing stimulus

3. Desensitization and counter-conditioning

4. Handling exercises

5. Increase activity level

6. Diet – exclude artificial flavors and preservatives and increase good source of protein.

7. Try to use head halter or no-pull harness

8. Try background music

9. Orthopedic examination

So where is Colleen now? Has she been saved?

Yes, she has been in training for 18 weeks now and is way into rehabilitation. She is a completely different dog now and if you are interested in how she has been turned around come back and visit us on this site.

See you soon…

You trainers,

Gil & Susie.

Puppies are fun aren’t they? But are you really up to the task and commitment? Are you ready to put in the extra work for the next few months? Will you give your pup a hug when he wakes you up crying to get out of the crate and go out to eliminate or will this drive you nuts? If it does, do yourself and the pup a favor, DO NOT GET ONE!!!

But if you can wake up with a loving smile on your face twice a night, a puppy is for you and I am sure you will have a lot of fun making a new life time friend who will pay you back ten folds for all the love you have invested.

Ready to get started?

Let’s crate train:

The crate – My personal preference is a plastic crate with front metal grid door and air grills on the upper sides and the back. This kind of crate gives the dog the feeling of being in a den where he can hide and have his privacy and it is easier to black out the front with a blanket.

I would advise buying a crate that will fit the dog at fully grown size so you don’t have to invest in a crate twice and also have the pup get used to the same one from the start.

Puppies will not soil their bedding providing that the initial space you are giving them fits the size of their body fully stretched and at the height they can comfortably sit. So, if you have purchased a full size crate you will have to put in a partition which you can later move and change the space as the dog grows.

I have recently got a lovely Lagotto Romagnolo puppy (imported from Slovakia, will tell you about him in my next blog) and I am using a full size crate and an old stove grid as a partition fastened with metal tie downs. It works great and the puppy is getting used to the full volume of the crate yet, he can’t really use it all but he can see, smell and feel it and it will not be a whole new crate to get used to as he grows.

Bedding – I have found in many cases that people suggest not to put any bedding into the crate to make it really uncomfortable for the puppy if he does his business inside. I must say that I find this ridiculous and inhumane. If your dog has had an accident in the crate the only one to blame is yourself!!!. You have failed to either get up early enough and let him out or you have locked him up in the crate without proper preparations and adjustment or you have locked him up and walked out of the house without training him for separation – it is not the dog’s fault, you might have done something wrong. A dog eliminating in the crate can very quickly become a serious behavior issue.

Also, dogs that lie on hard surfaces for many hours can develop Hygromas, these are hard to get rid of pressure growths around the hocks or elbows. Trust me, you don’t want to be there.

OK, so lets do it:

1. Please make sure you get a solid yet, cushy bedding, one that will not be easy to chew and take a part and put it in the crate. make sure the dog can lie down there fully stretched out and sit tall. Many puppies love to sleep with their legs fully stretched

2. Get rid of any alternative pillows and block ways to carpets. Ideally keep the dog confined in a tiled territory.

3. Leave the door open and throw few treats into the crate. Make sure the puppy sees them. Then just wait for the pup to go get them on his own. repeat several times during the day and hide the treats under the bedding to encourage play. You can feed the dog two to three times in the crate but do not make it a habit. The point is to make the crate a fun place to be and avoid scare. Feeding the dog in the crate too many times will associate feeding times with going in the crate and this should be avoided.

4. Throw a few chewable toys into the crate and let the puppy play inside. YOU ARE STILL WITH OPEN DOOR.

5. If the dog is busy chewing in the crate, start closing the door in a very slow motion to the point that the dog will get up and jump out. let him out, DO NOT FORCE HIM IN.

6. Repeat this drill several times a day. You will find that every time you will be Able to close the door a little further to the point that the puppy will feel confident to let you lock him in but will be let out the moment he is asking to. DO NOT LET HIM CRY HIS LOUNGS OUT begging to get out. Just let him out!!!

Remember! You are building trust and if the dog will not trust you he will give you hell.

7. Once you managed to lock him in and keep him quiet playing or sleeping, you are on the right track.

DO NOT GO OUT OF HIS SIGHT. If you must leave, open the door.

8. Wait for night time. Avoid water an hour before bed time. Throw an old T shirt of yours that you have just worn for 15 minutes into the crate. This will give the puppy the impression that you are still there (an awesome trick).

9. Turn on the radio tuned to non-stop classic music station (99.5 FM in Boston region is great). Dogs love music and it is very relaxing for them. Funny, but they love Mozart .

Take the puppy for last elimination before bed time.

10. If your puppy has fallen asleep in the crate this is great but, if he has fallen asleep anywhere out of the crate, very gently pick him up and put him in there and very slowly close the door on him while petting softly and soothingly along his body (just like his mom used to lick him all over) say “good boy/girl” and quietly lock the door.

11. Cover the door with a black light weight sheet (prepared ahead of time). If the puppy cries put you fingers through the door grid and let him sense you are still around.

12. Sit there at the crate till it is completely quiet and start pulling back very slowly. Do not be surprised if the puppy will sense you are backing off, dogs smell and hearing senses are so sensitive that they can easily tell when you are close or going far.

I have just done this, sitting at the crate and very slowly sliding off and back closer several times. It may take 15 to 20 minutes till you find your self 10-15 feet away from the crate then get up and walk away quietly.

13. Stay in the area and listen. You may hear the dog wining quietly. This is normal and is a process of self relaxation. If the dog cries loudly, let him out and take him out to eliminate. Praise and treat when done and put him back in the crate.

Yes, you will have to repeat the whole process all over again, tough life…

You may consider spending the 1st night sleeping next to the crate, at least you will get some sleep that night. I have done this and it worked. I did not have to do it the night after.

After the puppy has fallen asleep you can set you alarm clock to the maximum hours your dog can hold. The rule of thumb is the age of the pup in months +1 = number of hours he can hold. So if the puppy is 3 months old he should be able to hold it for 4 hours Max.

If for some reason your puppy can’t hold for that long and needs to go more frequently during night, get him checked by a Vet.

During the day make sure to remind your puppy to go out to eliminate frequently. Puppies are like children, they get busy and forget to go out. If the dog is very active he will drink more and pee more – that is fine. Dogs in training will need to go more frequently too, training is an excitement for them which provokes elimination needs.

NEVER EVER STICK YOUR DOG’S NOSE INTO HIS STUFF even if he had an accident. DO NOT YELL OR HIT THE DOG FOR SOILING!!! if you catch him doing it just pick him up say:”AH- AH” firmly (no shouting, no yelling) and take him out.

If you have not caught him while doing it, there is no point at doing anything, he will nor remember it after 30 seconds, just clean it up and make sure to spray the place with enzyme odor eliminator otherwise, the dog will get back to the same spot and do it again. It is an instinct and he will not be able to avoid it.

Please remember, dogs DO NOT do anything on purpose nor they do it as a revenge or anger or try to boss you. If they do it wrong it is because we are not doing it right.

Enjoy your pup

Your trainer Gil

Can a 9 weeks old puppy be “aggressively dominant”? Is there such a thing or is it owner’s ignorance and lack of socialization issue?

A recent incident has made me bring this issue up to current and future puppy owners’ attention.

I have been called for behavior evaluation of a 9 weeks old gorgeous little pup. The owner claimed that the puppy was growling and snapping at kids and mainly when presented to a large group of them.

I went to see this little guy and was greeted by an intensive bark while at the door which was not a usual thing for such a young pup.

Ignoring him, I have stepped into the house as he suspiciously opened a 4-5 feet distance away from me. I have sensed the tension this little pup was under so I have avoided any eye contact with him. Then, I tossed a yummy treat (I always have them handy) towards him and he grabbed it. Then, another one a little closer. It took 4 treats and he was sniffing me to explore all the interesting scents I have brought with me. Well, you know that as a dog trainer I carry tons of other dogs’ scents on me so I guess I made an interesting object for him.

In just a few minutes we became good friends and I could not avoid
falling in love with him. He was playful and lively and really a gorgeous dog. I was there for an hour playing with the dog, introducing him to my senior dachshund and watched his play. All I have observed was a typical play behavior of a normal pup.

The family with their two kids really loved him. Yet, while there, I have witnessed one incident when the small child was hitting the dog on his had with one of her plastic toys. Nothing “big”, in our terms, but still, pretty annoying for this pup. Have you ever seen a dog bend down with his ears stretched backward with quick lips licking? That was a stress signal. This pup did not like it and definitely wasn’t comfortable in this situation but haven’t snapped at the kid this time, he was tolerant.

I made a note to the parents about this but wondered how many times this happened before and revoked growling and snapping.

From the investigation of the parents I have learned that the puppy has been separated from his mother at 6-7 weeks of age (way too early), has been in process of crate training and has been presented to a large group of kids without prior preparation.

I have left the house with the recommendations for immediate socialization and puppy class for basic obedience training.

On a follow up call a week after I was told the puppy has been surrendered to a local shelter as he snapped on an elderly family member.

I was really saddened and felt so sorry for this pup. I really hope he will find an understanding family that will give him a daily warm hug and put him on the right track otherwise he will grow to be a bitter unsocial and possibly dangerous dog ending up euthanized.

So to all of you who own or intend to get a puppy please remember:

1. Puppies ARE NOT TOYS. Kids and elderly in particular must be educated how to properly approach and handle them
2. You must closely observe the puppy and kids play at all times. If you can’t have an eye on them you rather put the pup in a pen with his own toys.
3. Puppies must be very gradually exposed to the world without scaring them. DO NOT let the crowd or a bunch of kids jump all over them, this can be very stressful and the only way they can defend themselves is with the bedding of sharp knives in their lovely mouth.
4. Learn their body language, it is vital!!! They are talking to you and giving you signals. If they growl they do it for a reason, they are not comfortable with what is being done with them. A growl means leave me alone and get me some space. Ignoring that signal may result a snap and then a bite. DO NOT ignore signals.
5. DO NOT let people pet them on their had, many of them don’t like that. Watch for a slight head down and front body bending and ears pulled back. Watch for short quick lip licking (not a wide yummy lick) telling you “I am not comfortable, I am stressed”. Watch for yawning and/or panting telling you “I am scared, leave me alone”.
6. Puppies need to be socialized with other puppies, adult dogs, people, places and noises etc. (the world) – get advice from dog trainers.
7. Puppies need to be trained. At the minimum they should be obedience and good manners trained.
8. Early puppy separation (before 9-10 weeks of age) from the mother needs extra attention.
9. Proper Diet and wellness have a bearing on the puppy’s behavior. Get advice from the professionals.

Care, love and respect your pup, you will be well paid back by him when he grows.
Do not be ashamed of asking. Be ashamed of neglect.

“Good manners and soft words have brought many a difficult thing to pass” (Sir John Vanbrugh).

Your trainer, Gil.

I have been asked by a few of my website visitors about their dog’s behavior that looks to them like he/she was trying to dominate the house and the available books and articles by old school trainers suggest that all dog owners should take the bull by the horn and show the dog who is the BOSS and any bad behavior on your dog’s part is due to him trying to dominate you.

Now, you wonder if you have got the right answer? Well, let me surprise you, YOU HAVE NOT!

Dogs have never ever tried or will dominate you. This myth is just not true.

I know, you may ask as why so many books and celebrity trainers claim that “Alfa” dogs or “Leader of the pack” will take charge if you do not suppress their drive to lead you. The answer is simple: it sounds dramatic and it makes an attractive TV show. Not only that, they will give you 101 ways and show you how to get down on your poor dog and make him submissive. But even if you like watching those TV shows go for Animal Planet channel and see that even Victoria Stilwell will not blame dogs for dominance and will strongly suggest a positive reinforcement methods.

This “dominance” theory relating to dogs living in groups has been in circulation for many years and qualified behaviorists around the world are rapidly shying away from this as it became clear that domestic dog groups simply do not operate in this way.

The source of this myth is an outcome of an old research done on wolves gathered from various locations in captivity where a sort of hierarchy seamed to be observed. Although, wolves out in the wild do live in packs, they are all offspring and family related and will never challenge the hierarchy. And although, you will find the “Alfa pair” in each pack, they don’t necessarily lead the pack for hunting, for instance.

But domestic dogs had been living with humans for thousands of years and are no longer hunting for their own food so it would be wrong to compare their behaviors to those of wolves, they have evolved to be a completely different animals. And for those who insist and associate today’s dog with its wolf ancestor, it has been clearly observed that wolves will never challenge the pack hierarchy.

So the bottom line is that your dog is not trying to dominate you and you should get guidance as to how to positively reinforce your dog when training for wanted behavior and gain mutual trust and respect with your dog. Do not just try to copy TV shows ways for training.

My observation of canine behavior leads me to the conclusion that where there is a miss-behaving dog there is usually an even more ignorant and miss-behaving owner.

Your trainer, Gil

Daisy’s story has ended sadly on one of the main roads in the town of Hollis, New Hampshire where she was hit by a car still wearing her electric shock collar that supposed to confine her to the “fenced” yard. The system tested aftermath was working fine…

Hello dog lovers,

So, as you understand from visiting my website, I am a great fan of Positive Reinforcement. I will never punish a dog by any means, no hitting or kicking, no yelling or screaming, no yanking on the leash and will never use electric shockers of any kind.

The mutual respect, trust based built partnership and understanding the dogs nature and needs is all that matters and my belief is that you can’t really gain a real partner to rely on, performing out of fear.

How long would YOU partner with someone or work for someone out of fear? Eventually you will find the way to escape and if you are lucky you will make a new happy partnership with someone else. DOES YOUR DOG HAVE THE SAME CHOICE?

Yeah, I know, you will tell me that I am trying to humanize the dog. Well, I am not! I know the dog is a dog but I bet you that 99% of dog owners will agree that dogs do have emotions similar to ours and that even if emotions are many times hard to define we can clearly identify some basic ones in dogs.*

If you have spent some real quality time with your dog and observed dogs behavior you could clearly tell when your dog is expressing fear, anger, happiness, love, alertness etc. Your dog is communicating emotions by body language and sound.

Does any of you doubt that his dog can smile or express happiness? I don’t think so. Have you ever seen any smile or happy signals from a dog hit by electric shock, even a “mild” one? I don’t think so either.
I have shocked myself with such a collar and I bet you a million, you will not be smiling when you do try it yourself.

So I hope we all agree by now, that shocking is inhumane. But it is more than that, it is a punishment for innocent behavior. So your dog may keep away from the fence to avoid the shock till a chipmunk, squirrel or a mouse swifts by and crossing the yard. This “fence” will not stop intruders so, then what?

Let me tell you exactly what will happen. Adrenaline is being released to the blood system and the brain is completely shutting off all pain sensors sending the dog the HUNT signal. Unless your dog is very highly trained and you are right there to stop him when this happens neither you or the dog can control it and nothing on earth will stop the dog from chasing the little creature except a passing car on the road…

This is exactly what happened to poor Daisy. The family was devastated and so have been I. She was a wicked smart dog and picked up basic obedience so quickly something every trainer would admire. We miss her so much.

So, please, please, if you care for your dog’s happiness and safety and your own as well, put a real physical fence into your yard. There are some nicer ones out there and you can always plant some nice greens to cover it and make it look nice and decent. Keep the smile on your dog’s face as well as yours.

Have a great week,

Your trainer, / Gil

* See a great article by Patricia McConnell, PhD on dogs emotions in the May/June 2009 APDT Chronicle magazine.